Marmalade and The Setting Point
Further to our article last week, readers have been e-mailing tips and advice on making marmalade. All seem to agree that the skill lies in capturing the setting point, but the question is how to do it. Too early and you end up with Runny-Lade. It may taste good but it’s not quite the same as a Marmalade that has set.
Apparently, adding apple to the mix makes this a lot easier and adds a certain zingy quality which enhances the whole experience of eating the preserve. This is according to Preserves: River Cottage Handbook No. 2 by Pam Corbin (quoted in The Week 2 Feb 2013 and sold from their online bookshop).
Here it is:
- 1 kg Seville Oranges
- 100ml lemon Juice
- 150-200g sharp cooking apples, peeled and finely grated
- 2 kg Demerara sugar
- 2 litres water
1. Scrub the oranges and place in a large heavy based pan with the water. Cover, bring to the noil, then simmer for approx. 2 hrs until skins are tender. Set aside to cool.
2. Remove the oranges from the pan. Measure the cooking water – you should have around 1.7 litres (make up with water if necessary). Break oranges in half. Remove and discard the pips. Cut peel and flesh into thin, medium or chunky shreds and return to the cooking lequid. Add lemon juice and apple and bring slowly to the boil. Add the sugar (no need to warm) and stir until compleely dissolved.
3. Bring to a rolling boil and boil rapidly (10-12 mins) until the setting point has been reached. Use a jam thermometer or do the wrinkle test with a drop of marmalade on a cold saucer. Some say you can have the plate in the freezer so it is really cold before you put the Marmalade on the plate and then return it to the freezer for one minute. If the jelly wrinkles when you push it with your finger, it is done.
4. Remove from the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes before potting up and sealing in sterile jam jars.

Leaving the pips in for the whole cooking time will help with setting, as they contain the vital pectin. After the first cook, put them back in with the cut skins and sugar, but tied up in a bit of cotton or muslin so that they can be removed before pouring the marmalade into jars.